Tiger Barbs require careful tank mate selection due to their fin-nipping behavior and boisterous nature. The safest approach is species-only tanks dedicated to Tiger Barbs, eliminating compatibility concerns while showcasing their schooling behavior and vibrant colors. However, with proper selection, community setups succeed when including equally active, robust species without long fins.
Compatible tank mates include other active barbs such as Rosy Barbs, Cherry Barbs (though these are more peaceful), Tinfoil Barbs in large tanks, or Gold Barbs. Fast-swimming danios including Zebra Danios, Giant Danios, or Pearl Danios can keep pace with Tigers and handle their energy. Larger, robust tetras like Buenos Aires Tetras, Congo Tetras, or Colombian Tetras work in spacious tanks. Rainbow fish including Boesemani Rainbows, Turquoise Rainbows, or other Melanotaenia species have appropriate activity levels and short fins.
Bottom-dwelling catfish occupying different zones include larger Corydoras species, Synodontis catfish, larger plecos like Bristlenose, and active loaches such as Clown Loaches or Yoyo Loaches. These bottom-dwellers generally avoid Tiger Barb aggression. Certain peaceful cichlids like larger Geophagus species or Firemouth Cichlids can work in large tanks with adequate territories.
Incompatible species include all long-finned, slow-moving fish. Absolutely avoid Angelfish, Bettas, fancy Guppies, fancy Goldfish, Discus, and other species with elaborate finnage. Small peaceful fish including Neon Tetras, Cardinal Tetras, small rasboras, and nano species will be harassed and stressed. Shy, passive species unable to compete during feeding or handle the constant activity are poor companions. Other semi-aggressive fish like some cichlids may conflict with Tigers.
Breeding Tiger Barbs is relatively straightforward and rewarding for aquarists with basic experience. They're egg-scatterers that spawn readily when properly conditioned, making them good breeding projects for developing aquarists.
Sexual dimorphism is visible in mature specimens. Males are more slender with more intense, vibrant coloration, particularly in the red areas. During breeding condition, males develop bright red noses and snouts, deepening red in fins, and overall enhanced coloration. Females are noticeably larger, deeper-bodied, and fuller, especially when carrying eggs. Gravid females show obvious belly swelling. Females display less intense coloration with more subdued orange and less red than males.
Conditioning for breeding involves several weeks of high-quality feeding with emphasis on live foods. Feed live brine shrimp, bloodworms, daphnia, and mosquito larvae 2-3 times daily. Females become visibly plump with eggs, and males develop intense breeding coloration with red noses. Select the healthiest, most vibrant specimens for breeding, typically fish at least 1.5 inches long and sexually mature.
Breeding setup requires a separate 10-20 gallon spawning tank with gentle sponge filtration. Fill with dechlorinated water matching main tank parameters or slightly warmer (78-80°F). The tank needs spawning media to catch eggs and prevent parents from eating them. Marble substrate (2-3 layers of marbles covering the bottom), spawning mops, or fine-leaved plants like Java moss work well. Eggs fall between marbles or into plants where parents can't reach them easily.
Introduce conditioned pairs or small groups (1-2 males per female) into the spawning tank in the evening. Spawning typically occurs the following morning as light increases. Males pursue females vigorously, driving them into spawning media. The female releases eggs while the male fertilizes them simultaneously. Spawning is vigorous, with multiple spawning runs scattering 200-500+ eggs throughout the media.
Remove adults immediately after spawning (within 12-24 hours) as they actively consume eggs given opportunity. Eggs are small, amber-colored, and adhesive, sticking to spawning media. Fertile eggs remain clear amber while infertile eggs turn opaque white within 24 hours. Remove fungused eggs if possible or add antifungal medication like methylene blue at appropriate dosage.
Eggs hatch in 24-48 hours at 78-80°F. Fry are tiny and initially attach to surfaces or rest on the bottom. They become free-swimming 3-5 days after hatching and begin actively swimming and hunting food. Feed newly free-swimming fry with infusoria or liquid fry foods for 2-3 days, then introduce newly hatched brine shrimp, micro worms, or finely crushed flakes. Fry grow rapidly when fed 3-4 times daily.
Maintain excellent water quality in fry tanks through frequent small water changes (10-15% daily or every other day) using aged, temperature-matched water. As fry grow, gradually increase food size and reduce feeding frequency. By 6-8 weeks, juveniles accept adult foods and display recognizable Tiger Barb coloration. By 8-10 weeks, they can join community tanks, though growing them larger before introduction prevents predation.
The ease of spawning, prolific egg production, and hardy fast-growing fry make Tiger Barb breeding accessible and rewarding. Success requires proper conditioning, appropriate spawning setup, and attentive fry care, but these steps are manageable for dedicated aquarists. Breeding provides opportunities to share fish with other hobbyists and maintain healthy genetic diversity.